It's Halloween and we're out and about in Rome, dodging scooters and miniscule cars as we try to find somewhere to celebrate one of the stranger holidays of the year. There's a distinct lack of the costumed tom-foolery or gaudy orange decorations that would currently be adorning the pubs at home, making a valiant effort at spreading the party spirit in the cold, dark season preceding Christmas. I guess that's because costumed tomfoolery and gaudy decorations would be far too unfashionable for the people around me, the most fashionable human beings on the planet. I'm guided by the most-fashionable Aldo, a label-wearing Roman whom I'd known for an hour, and Ksenia, a very pretty Ukrainian girl who'd invited me out for an impossible to refuse Halloween beverage after we met at my hostel. The night had started with a drive in search of aperitivo, which ended at Campo Del Fiori, a great little square nearly halfway between the Coliseum and the Vatican. Aldo skillfully piloted his diminutive vehicle through the bustling back streets off Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, trying to squeeze into spaces, which I would have struggled to park my bike in. Eventually he found one to his satisfaction and levered ...

If the award for Best Market in Europe was dished out by name alone, Rome’s Campo de’ Fiori (or ‘field of flowers’) would win hands down. (Well, it’s certainly better than Barcelona’s Boqueria, which translates as ‘slaughterhouse’). Campo de’ Fiori is primarily one of Rome’s most beloved squares, even though it lacks the formal architectural arrangements of the city’s other great piazzi such as the Piazza Navona or del Popolo. However this one-time meadow has always been a hub of the city’s commercial activity and the nomenclature of the surrounding streets reflect this. In the Middle Ages, you could have picked up a bespoke cape in Via dei Giubbonari (Tailor’s street) and a bow and arrow in Via dei Balestrari (Crossbow makers street) before heading off to one of the many inns in the square for a night of bawdy revelry. This still happens once the sun sets on the Campo de’ Fiori, when hoards of young people, mainly tourists, pack out the outdoor cafes that line the piazza. But every morning (except Sunday) the Campo de’ Fiori comes alive with a genuine local experience; Rome’s biggest (and possibly Europe’s prettiest) open air market. This being Italy the stalls of fruit, vegetables, ...

Because the last time I was there I was heavily pregnant, and every single person smiled at me, and wished me tanti aguri (best wishes). Everywhere else in the world I felt large, to say the least, and a strain on everyone but in Rome I was a welcome addition to society. In restaurants I was sent delicious dishes by chefs (that I didn’t order) and whenever I think of my midnight munchies- the pizza! Lordie lord the pizza! I became a regular at the Pizzeria da Baffetto (via del Governo Vechio 11), a roman institution and the queues that snake outside are testament to this. The large pizzas would feed a small village - all this for as little at 7 Euros for a meal. Oh and then there was the ice-cream! I should probably admit at this point that the chestnut ice-cream (a favourite of the late John Paul II I was told) is a memory that I will carry with me into my old age. Most Romans consider Giolitti (via Uffici del Vicario 40) to make the best gelato in Rome but I found it delicious wherever I bought it. What more can I say other than about food? The ...

Here at Holiday Velvet we often get asked about where you can leave your luggage whilst you are waiting to 'check in' to your apartment or after you have 'checked-out'. Whilst you can always ask the owner directly if they are able to look after your bags for a few hours, left luggage facilities still exist at many major train stations and other transport hubs. These days, most of these facilities run on an automated locker system (gone are the days when you checked in your bag in as you would a coat in a nightclub). Remember that they may fill up at peak periods. Rome When arriving at Termini Station on the Leonardo Express train from Fiumicino airport, you can leave your baggage in the ‘piazza’ on the lower-ground floor (follow the ‘Deposito bagagli’ signs). It’s open 6am-midnight, 7 days a week. Venice ‘Deposito bagagli’ is available at Santa Lucia Train Station (open 6am-midnight daily). Cooperative Trasbagagli is a private company that will not only store you luggage for you, but take it by boat to your place of accommodation, saving you schlepping bags over the bridges and canals. They have two offices in Venice; one at the Piazzale Roma (open 6am to ...

The Scuola di Cuoio (Leather school) is situated inside Santa Croce, the historic church where Michelangelo is buried together with many other notable Florentines. The school teaches the craft of manufacturing by hand, leather clothes and accessories including wallets and purses, which are subsequently sold to the public. The leather goods sold by the school are usually of a very high quality but are on offer for much lower prices than similar named brands in chic Florentine shops. When you buy an item from the Scuola di Cuoio there is also a chance to tour the workshop. If you are looking for truly top quality leather items especially large items such as a leather coat, then the Scuola di Cuoio is the place to go first. Buying leather in Santa Croce is not like buying a cheap coat in a leather market but the prices are much more reasonable than you would expect for the quality of the leather and the design. If you are renting an apartment in Florence for a while, it is possible to commission Scuola di Cuoio to custom a leather coat to fit you precisely. The thrill of trying on a beautifully soft, tailor-made, leather jacket ...

Ponte di Rialto is the most magnificent bridge in Venice and one of the finest in Italy. The area around the Rialto Bridge is very much the heart of Venice and to roam the romantic streets while licking delicious Italian ice cream is an experience that cannot be beaten! There are a few ice cream vendors in and around the Rialto area and one of the most popular and best is La Boutique del Gelato which is on the corner of Calle Paradiso and Salizada San Lio. La Boutique del Gelato is considered to be the best place to buy ice cream in the Rialto area of Venice and probably in the whole of the city. Simply, the quality of the ice cream is superb and is complemented by an extensive choice of flavours and the generous size of the scoops. There are one or two ice cream sellers in Venice who sell ice cream cones that hold little more than a couple of hearty licks, whereas La Boutique del Gelato is considered to be reasonable value bearing in mind the amount of business the ice cream shop attracts especially in the summer months.La Boutique del Gelato is open ...

Around the Spanish Steps of Rome there are some excellent restaurants and these include options for all budgets whether you are looking for high-end Rome restaurants or budget ones. The great thing about food in Italy is that even if you go for budget restaurants, you can still expect very decent quality food and this is especially true for restaurants around the Spanish Steps area. Da Gino Trattoria (Vicolo Rosini, 4) – is a traditional trattoria which is a great option if you are looking for a budget restaurant near the Spanish steps. Be sure to try the pasta e ceci in brodo di arzilla or the home-made fettuccine. Order the house wine and you will get to sample a quality wine and a budget price. Situated near to the Piazza del Parlamento, this restaurant comes highly recommended. Naturist Club L'Isola - despite its name, the Naturist Club L'Isola has nothing to do with nudists and is in fact a macrobiotic restaurant. Both well priced and known for using fresh, seasonal, organically grown vegetables in their cooking, this is a wonderful place to eat. Although the menu is largely vegetarian and features many vegan dishes, fish is available here as well. The ...

Rome is famous for the delicious ice cream available in the Gelaterie as they are known locally. The area around the Pantheon in particular is typically full of gelaterie or ice cream shops that offer tourists and locals the chance to sample the rich and creamy delights of Italian Gelato. Giolitti (Via degli Uffici del Vicario) – is one of the most famous places for buying ice cream in Rome and this has been a favourite haunt of locals and tourists alike for years. Giolitti is located close to the Piazza Montecitorio on the Via Uffici del Vicario and the place can be quite crowded, such is the popularity of the ice cream here. There is a fantastic range of ice cream flavours and this place comes highly recommended. Cremeria Monteforte (via della Rotonda 22) - is another popular place for ice cream and located in the Pantheon area. The ice cream at the Cremeria Monteforte is made on the spot by the owner of this ice cream shop, with Roberto’s yoghurt gelato particularly delicious and believed by many to be the best in the city. Note that the Cremeria Monteforte is closed between the middle of December and the middle of ...

The Old Bridge, better known as the Ponte Vecchio, is a world renowned monument that draws thousands of people to Florence every year. In a way, the history of the Ponte Vecchio marks the progress of Italy and Florence from the Middle Ages.The first bridge over the Arno River was probably built by the Romans in stone and wood and is mentioned in a document that dates from 996. A little over one hundred years later the bridge was swept away in a flood. It was rebuilt in stone but two hundred or more years later it was destroyed by another flood, save for its two central piers. Consequently, the bridge was rebuilt again to a design by Taddeo Gaddi. The Ponte Vecchio has three segmented arches with the main arch having a span of 30 metres; the arches either side have spans of 27 metres. The bridge itself has always been a place to do business with shops and merchants buying and selling goods. It is reckoned that the word bankruptcy originated from the trade that was carried out on the bridge. If a merchant ran out of money and was seriously in debt, the table from where he sold his ...

Looking for an art gallery in Rome with an amazing history and a rich collection of artwork? Then head to the Galleria Doria Pamphilj located near the Spanish Steps in Rome. This gallery is home to a wealth of seventeenth century art, collected by the Italian Doria-Pamphilj family. The family, whose umbrella name of Doria-Pamphilj embraces the families of Doria, Pamphilj, Aldobrandini and Landi, is an illustrious and wealthy one, with Popes and Princes among its members. The Galleria Doria Pamphilj was once the home of Pope Innocent X, who belonged to the Pamphilj family. An English heritage line runs in the family and the quarter-English Princess Orietta Pogson Doria Pamphilj and her English husband were responsible for the restoration of the family’s art collection. The collection was opened to the public soon after the collection was restored. Some of the seventeenth century artists represented here includes Annibale Carracci, Jan Bruegel, Caravaggio, Gaspard Dughet, Guido Reni, Claude Lorrain and Guercino. In addition to paintings, the Galleria Doria Pamphilj also houses fine sculptures by Bernini and Algardi. Some of the sculptures in the Galleria Doria Pamphilj collection date from ancient times; the gallery also boasts interesting antique furniture and furnishings on display. The gem ...