Is there anything more charming than a French market? The colours, the bustle, the scent of herbs and pungent cheeses; if anyone region in Europe exceeds at outdoor market ambiance it would have to be Provence and Aix-en-Provence has some of the best.

Even though you can buy a small selection of fresh produce every morning in under the plane trees in the Place Richeime (a favourite haunt of the city’s chefs) Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays are the days of the grands marches when the centre of town overflows with vendors.

One these days, head to the front of the town hall Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville for freshly cut flowers, bunches of lavender and pot plants. Then follow you nose to the Place des Prêcheurs and Place de la Madeleine, where you’ll find local fruit and vegetables, artisan cheeses, chacuterie, comfit fruit, freshly baked baguettes and truffles (in season).

Along the Cours Mirabeau second-hand clothes traders hang out their wares, attracting a hip clientele eager to source out a vintage haute couture (that rarely comes at a bargain price) and accessories using local textiles, which are typified by florid and geometric designs in vivid colours. Treasures can be sought however at Place de Verdun where everything from a rusted garden fork to a gilt clock is sold by zealous brocanteurs. Bargaining at closing time (around 12.30pm) can actually score some good discounts.

A special market of rare and antique books is held all day on the first Sunday of each month in front of the town hall and the clothes and textile traders of the Cours Mirabeau stay open late into the evening on Saturdays in summer, creating a colourful buzz in elegant Aix.

Since 2006 Holiday Velvet offers accommodation in Provence.